Revised Framing Plan

Here is a start on the revised framing plan based on the new floor plan and 16″ board width. I’ll draw the walls next so you can see how each panel is framed. I’ll also be sure to stagger/alternate the horizontal seams so that the walls are stronger and don’t have one long weak joint. You’ll also notice that not all the siding boards are the same size simply due to the fact that the width and length of the house are not equally divisible by 16″. If I put uneven boards (the non 16″ boards) in the middle it would look really weird, so I’m making up the difference at the corners. The corners will also be capped with vertical boards for added visual interest and a better seal.

I’m also still noodling through roof pitch alternatives. I like the idea of a simple symmetrical pitched roof because they look cute. But I’m not really happy with the limited headroom in the loft. I’ll do a couple quick drawings to explore other options. One reader suggested a flat sod roof and as much as I like the idea for house on a permanent foundation I’m afraid a tiny house that rolls down the highway from time to time might have a bit of trouble with a planted roof. Can you imagine being the guy behind me? ha ha

Tiny Free House Wall Framing Plan

Now that I have a trailer it’s time to refine the design to fit the final dimensions. Below is a drawing that illustrates how I’m thinking of building walls from pallet wood. The two main problems with pallet wood are the short boards (36″ to 40″) and that no board is the same size. So as you can imagine building anything from this stuff would be a challenge.

I’ve been noodling over these problems for a few weeks. I think I’ve come up with an unconventional, yet not unheard of, building method that should make strong walls that are relatively light weight, air tight, and attractive. Just click on the image to see the full size version.

In a nutshell, I’m thinking that the best way to build the walls is to make a bunch of 36″ by 40″ panels out of the 2×4 material from pallets, and then cover the exterior, and eventually interior, with 18″ wide trimmed pallet boards. Everything would be sanded, sealed and then glued and screwed into place. The completed panels would then be glued and bolted together as the walls go up. Wiring, plumbing, and insulation would also be installed before the interior boards would be put in place.

This would give the exterior of the house a fairly interesting look. Below is a drawing that attempts to show you how what I’m imagining. As you can see the 18″ width and the lap joints are the only things the boards will have in common. The various thicknesses and heights would add visual interest. Kind of like making lemonade from lemons.

By laying the boards horizontally in 18″ wide columns and screwing the ends into the 2×4′s behind them the exterior should take on a consistent yet random natural texture. I’m hoping that the effect will end up giving the house a clean look. I’m pretty sure I’ll use some kind of sturdy natural finish on the exterior to let the wood’s natural color and grain show through. On the interior I’m planning on using a similar technique but I’m not sure what kind of finish I’ll use yet. I’ll worry about that when I get there.

Which leads me to point out one of the more unusual aspects of how I’m going about approaching this project. Unlike an architect I can’t exactly specify every detail in the plans. The plans will have to be flexible to accommodate the unusual material and the fact that all the parts need to be free (ideally). This is week I’m searching for windows because their size will determine the framing of the wall panels that will hold them. I can begin building the standard size wall panels any time but the panels that hold the windows and door need to be built to fit the stuff I find.

I’m still working on the best way to frame the floor and roof. One interesting aspect of the trailer I chose was that it’s a bit on the tall side. The tires are truck tires, about 30″ high. This means that if I build the house’s floor over the wheels it will be about three feet in the air. The roof can be no taller than 13 feet 6 inches in California. I’ve also seen 14 feet listed online as the maximum height but I think that requires a special permit so I’ll stick with keeping the house and trailer together under 13 feet six inches and work around the pitch issue.

What all this boils down to is the pitch of my roof is going to be flatter if I decide to build the house over the wheels is that I think I want to make the house detachable from the trailer. If the house has a flat bottom, sans wheel wells, it will look more like a house when it’s set up and the trailer has been pulled out from beneath it. The only thing that might give away the fact that the house is portable will its size and the jacks I’d need to put on the four corners of the house. These would be needed to lift the house off and on the trailer and for leveling.

I’m going to have to do a little more homework before I make the final decision to make the house detachable. I’ve not seen this done with other tiny houses and I’m sure there are some serious structural considerations to be thought through. For instance the floor would need to be extremely strong to take the flexing of the house and the weight and span between the corner jacks. It almost sounds like a steel frame might be the only way to go, which would add a lot of complexity to the project.

Once I figure out if I’m going with attached or detached I’ll finish up the floor and roof framing design. I don’t think this decision makes much of an impact on the wall panel design so I’ll barrel forward there. As I get some of the panels built I’ll post photos online so you can see how the siding treatment turns out.